Skip to my Looe for a fab trip by train!

Looe is a charming coastal town in Cornwall, offering a unique blend of history, picturesque scenery, and seaside fun. It’s a destination that provides a glimpse into traditional Cornish life, and one of the best ways to travel there is by train. The journey to Looe is a delight in itself, thanks to the scenic Looe Valley Line. This railway line starts at Liskeard, meandering through lush valleys, rivers, and farmland before taking customers a short leisurely, flat 5-7 minute walk into the heart of this quaint fishing town – a fabulous denouement to an enthralling journey!

Credit: Mark Lynam

There’s wildlife aplenty to also spot on the journey, with, on a good day, peacocks, little egrets, grey herons, oystercatchers and curlews visible from the window! Your heart will skip a beat or two as you venture on this almost paradisical ride to this beautiful location. One of our favourite parts is the lovely horseshoe curve from Liskeard to Coombe Junction. The best bit is when, from Coombe Junction, the route winds its way through the heavily wooded valley until the valley dramatically opens out for a glorious last two miles with the train running alongside the river before reaching Looe. There’s a heightening sense of occasion as the train builds its way to a climax, venturing purposefully through the woods, with the canal on one side, river on the other – it’s almost a green tunnel looking out of the window! There’s growing anticipation prior to the unfolding, panoramic vista, as Looe appears in the distance – the wait is worthwhile as this really is a gem of a destination at the end of a delightful journey!

It’s a famous branch line, operated by the renowned Great Western Railway. Devon & Cornwall Rail Partnership work with Great Western Railway to promote the line and the places it serves and highlight the long and unusual history. There’s connections from Penzance in the West and the North, Midlands and London from the East at Liskeard.

The Looe Valley Line really has a fascinating history. It was originally built in 1860 to serve the mining industry, transporting copper and stone from the nearby Caradon mines. Over time, it became a passenger line, offering customers a scenic and languid route into Cornwall’s southeastern coast. The line passes through the peaceful hamlet of Sandplace, forests, and alongside the River Looe, offering beautiful views throughout the journey. It’s a real treat, particularly the final stretch where the train hugs the riverbank before arriving in Looe itself. The journey takes around 30 minutes from Liskeard, and if you fancy stretching your legs and further soaking up the scenery, you can walk between the stations (apart from Sandplace and Looe).

Upon stepping off the train in Looe, it’s a 5-7 minute walk to the town centre, where you’re immediately struck by the relaxed, languid atmosphere. Looe is split into two halves, East and West Looe, separated by the River Looe but connected by a charming 19th-century bridge. The town’s narrow streets are lined with old fishermen’s cottages, and many buildings retain their original Cornish character, painted in soft pastels or whitewashed, with slate rooves.

One of the main attractions in Looe is its working fishing harbour. The town has a rich history as a fishing port, and this is still very much a part of daily life here. Visitors can watch the fishermen unload their catch, much of which goes straight to the town’s seafood restaurants. A fantastic place is Smugglers Cott which is in a delightful building dating back to 1420 and with timbers from the Armada. It serves sumptuous seafood, steaks and a rib roast carvery. The Golden Guinea is another gem and is situated in Fore Street and is a Grade II listed building. A traditional restaurant combines with a marvellous selection of exotic cocktails for all tastes!

The beach in Looe is another draw for visitors. Looe Beach, located on the eastern side of the town and just a ten minute walk from the station, is a wide, sandy stretch that’s perfect for families. Its gentle slope into the sea makes it safe for swimming, and the beach is ideal for picnics or simply soaking up the Cornish sunshine. Further afield is Hannafore Beach, which is more rugged and rocky, making it a great spot for rock pooling at low tide. You’ll find crabs, sea anemones, and a variety of small fish in the shallow pools – a hit with children and anyone interested in marine life.

For a different kind of adventure, take a boat trip from Looe Harbour to Looe Island, a small nature reserve located just a mile off the coast. The island is owned by Cornwall Wildlife Trust, and visitors can explore its trails, spot seals basking on the rocks, and enjoy stunning views of the mainland. Looe Island has an interesting history too – it was once home to a monastic community and later became a smugglers’ hideout, with tales of hidden treasures still circulating today.

By night, Looe has a certain, indescribable, surreal mystique about it as the lights come out over this enchanted place, with the waves crashing in serenely and a silver glow glistening down on the sea, creating a real sense of ambience and riviera-style opulence.

Speaking of smuggling, Looe was once a notorious hub for smuggling during the 18th century. Its isolated coves and hidden bays made it the perfect place for smugglers to bring in contraband, from brandy to tobacco, under the cover of darkness. The old stories of smugglers are still told today, and a visit to the Old Guildhall Museum, will give you a fascinating insight into Looe’s more rebellious past. The museum showcases artefacts from the town’s history, including smuggling memorabilia, and offers a glimpse into what life was like in Looe centuries ago.

Modern-day Looe is a bustling community, especially during the summer months when it comes alive with festivals and events, as well as quirky shops, capturing the seaside frivolity. The Looe Weekender, which is a music festival that takes place every September, attracting eclectic bands and artists, with the streets and beaches filled with music, food, and a lively atmosphere. For something a little more low-key, visit Looe during the New Year when the town hosts one of Cornwall’s most famous New Year’s Eve celebrations. Locals and visitors alike dress up in fancy dress costumes, and at midnight the town comes together for a spectacular fireworks display over the harbour.

For those who love walking, Looe offers plenty of opportunities to explore the surrounding countryside. The South West Coast Path runs through the town, and heading west will take you to the picturesque Polperro, another historic fishing village. The coastal path offers stunning views of the sea, rugged cliffs, and rolling hills, and it’s not uncommon to spot dolphins or seals along the way. For a shorter, less strenuous walk, follow the trail up to Looe’s Banjo Pier, which offers panoramic views of the town and coastline.

Looe’s local produce is also a big draw for foodies. Aside from seafood, the town has a wealth of local suppliers offering everything from Cornish pasties to artisan cheeses and local ciders. A visit to Pengelly’s Fish Shop is a must if you want to take some fresh fish home with you, so too, the wonderful Kellys. Alternatively, visit the Looe Bakery for their famous Cornish pasties, made fresh every morning with locally sourced ingredients. Sarah’s Pasty Shop, in Buller Street, near the Quay, is also phenomenal and is based in a charming old fishing cottage, with the shop operating from the old net stores that are below the house. The pasties are perfect and the gateaux are great!

Looe’s history isn’t just about smuggling and fishing. The town was also an important hub for shipbuilding in the 19th century, and it was here that the famous sailing ship, the Agnes, was built in 1841. Today, you can still see the town’s connection to the sea in its thriving sailing and boating communities.

A fascinating but reflective feature in the town centre is the War Memorial which has an ornate designed railing surrounding it and perfectly manicured flowers and lawn. Meanwhile, at the heart of Looe is The Guildhall, which is a striking 19th-century building, imperiously overlooking this magnificent small town. Constructed in 1877 from local stone, it features a distinctive clock tower and Gothic-style windows, reflecting its historic role in the civic life of the town. Originally used as a courthouse and police station, it now houses the Looe Museum, which showcases the town’s rich maritime heritage. The building’s quaint, medieval character, with its exposed beams and stone walls, makes it a popular attraction, offering visitors a glimpse into Looe’s past and its longstanding connection to the sea.

The Old Lifeboat Station is another charming historical landmark that speaks to the town’s maritime past. Built in 1866, it served as a lifeboat station to aid vessels in distress along the often-treacherous Cornish coast. The original station, constructed of local stone and nestled at the end of East Looe beach, was positioned strategically to allow quick launches into the sea, ensuring rapid response times during emergencies. The structure itself is quaint and characteristic of its era, featuring a steeply pitched roof and a distinctive boathouse door, once used to house the lifeboat. Over time, technological advancements and the need for improved facilities led to the opening of a new lifeboat station in the 1990s, making the Old Lifeboat Station redundant. Despite this, the old building has been preserved and now serves as a reminder of Looe’s proud life-boating heritage.

The railway line to Looe may no longer carry copper or tin, but it still plays a vital role in connecting the town with the wider world. It offers a slow, scenic approach to Looe, allowing you to take in the landscape and appreciate the beauty of Cornwall. The view from the window is mesmerising and jaw-dropping in places!

The train journey, coupled with Looe’s mix of history, culture, and seaside charm, makes for an unforgettable experience, whether you’re visiting for a day or staying longer to fully explore this captivating corner of Cornwall. The journey is breathtaking and so too the destination – to plan your scenic sojourn, be sure to check out Liskeard to Looe – Looe Valley Line – Great Scenic Journeys