Gunnislake’s great on the terrific Tamar Valley line

Nestled on the border between Cornwall and Devon, Gunnislake is a hidden gem often overlooked by tourists exploring the southwest of England. With its rugged charm, stunning natural beauty, and a rich history that reflects Cornwall’s mining heritage, Gunnislake offers visitors a tranquil escape, yet with enough to see and do to make every visit memorable. The best way to devour this picturesque village and its blissful surrounding area, is on the scenic Tamar Valley Line, one of the most beautiful train routes in the UK. Starting from Plymouth, the line follows the winding course of the River Tamar and delivers customers into the heart of Cornwall’s dramatic landscape.

The Tamar Valley Line itself is a wonder of Victorian engineering – something that is soon apparent as the journey unfolds. Leaving Plymouth behind, the train trundles its way out of the City, through the renowned Dockyard landscape, then rolling through rural countryside, but first with views of the majestic and world famous Brunel Bridge, where mainline trains from London as far as Penzance navigate their way, along with local services.

If the sight of the Brunel Bridge overhanging the idyllic Tamar isn’t fab, then the highlight is still to come with the awe-inspiring Calstock Viaduct, which rises 120 feet above the Tamar River. It’s  a striking 12-arched railway bridge and was completed in 1907. This awe-inspiring structure is  built from concrete blocks, a pioneering material at the time. It played a key role in linking the rural area to Plymouth and beyond, facilitating trade and transport. 

This part of Cornwall is a designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, so it’s worth keeping your camera handy throughout the journey. The line was originally built in the late 19th century to transport minerals from the region’s bustling mining industry, but today it’s a lifeline for locals and a pleasure for tourists seeking a peaceful day trip – the stations also have a bygone feel about them, restored to their former glory – Berre Ferrers (below) is a particular favourite of ours’. It’s like stepping back on time on this classic single-track branch line as the route climbs higher and higher – with the train almost puffing and panting as it makes its way towards Gunnislake. This line is entrenched in the heart of the people and villages that it serves, attentively cared for and loved by the Devon & Cornwall Community Rail Partnership in conjunction with the well regarded train operating company, Great Western Railway.

Upon arriving at Gunnislake, visitors are greeted by a sense of calm, as the village itself retains much of its old-world charm. The history of this village is inextricably linked to mining, which shaped much of the region. Gunnislake was once a thriving hub for copper, tin, and arsenic mining, and evidence of this heritage can still be seen in the remnants of old mines and engine houses dotted around the surrounding countryside. A short walk from the station will lead you to the Tamar Trails, a network of walking paths that crisscross the valley. These trails not only showcase the stunning natural beauty of the area but also reveal its industrial past, with interpretive boards and restored mining sites offering a glimpse into what life was like during Cornwall’s mining boom. The journey is also the stage for some wonderful wildlife too…

For coffee lovers, there’s the Orchard Café, a cosy spot offering light lunches, homemade cakes, and, as the name suggests, plenty of apples in the autumn months, as the area is known for its orchards. Their Cornish cream teas are a must-try – don’t forget, when in Cornwall, the jam goes on first!

For a taste of history, then one-stop back down the valley and a station further down the line and it’s at Calstock with its stunning medieval church, St Andrew’s, which dates back to the 14th century and is well worth a visit.  Meanwhile, The Tamar Inn is a ‘must visit’ for lunch and it’s fab fish and chips! A short, meandering walk from the station down the hill to the Inn is a real treat, particularly the views onto the Tamar. There’s always a sense of ambience, be it mist drawing in and rolling off the water or the sun rising and setting deep in the valley.

Venturing slightly beyond Calstock and Gunnislake is the delightful National Trust property, Cotehele, a Tudor house with gardens overlooking the River Tamar. Cotehele is famed for its ancient tapestries and well-preserved interiors, and its grounds include beautiful woodlands, a quay, and a working watermill. The house remains largely unchanged since the 16th century, offering visitors a rare glimpse into a time long gone.

One of the quirkiest aspects of Gunnislake is its connection to Sir Francis Drake, the famous English sea captain who played a pivotal role in defeating the Spanish Armada in 1588. Drake was born in nearby Tavistock and is believed to have used the River Tamar to access the open seas on his expeditions. His influence in the region is still felt today, with many local landmarks bearing his name. In fact, the entire Tamar Valley is steeped in history relating to Drake’s adventurous exploits.

Modern-day Gunnislake has kept pace with the times while still honouring its rich past. Every August, the village comes alive with the Gunnislake Festival, a community event featuring live music food stalls, art displays, and traditional Cornish games. The festival is a great opportunity for visitors to mingle with locals and experience Cornish culture at its finest.

Gunnislake also has a vibrant arts scene. Local artists often open their studios to the public, and there are several galleries showcasing the work of regional painters, potters, and sculptors. For those interested in a more hands-on experience, workshops are occasionally held, allowing visitors to try their hand at pottery or painting, taking a little piece of Gunnislake’s creative spirit home with them.

While the village may seem quiet, Gunnislake is the gateway to adventure. Outdoor enthusiasts will love exploring the nearby Dartmoor National Park (see above), a short 15 minutes’ bus ride away on route 79 from Gunnislake or Calstock to Tavistock, offering opportunities for hiking, wild swimming, and horseback riding. Tavistock is a great place to browse and is a charming market town rich in history and natural beauty. Its vibrant Pannier Market offers local crafts and produce, while the nearby River Tavy provides peaceful riverside walks. Tavistock’s Georgian and Victorian architecture adds to its picturesque appeal, and its proximity to Dartmoor makes it a haven for hikers and nature lovers. The town’s welcoming community and lively events, such as the Goose Fair, create a warm, festive atmosphere. Tavistock combines rural tranquility with cultural heritage, making it a delightful destination for visitors seeking both relaxation and exploration.